Hi
I don't have any real problems to complain about. I am in search for a balanced kart and have been following other karters setup. Which they all drive an Arrow chassis. I think the CRG Maximo chassis is different and does not respond like the Arrow.
Having said that, I feel that I am binding the chassis coming out of a turn, I am not sure if this is my driving style or setup. I think my front track is to narrow (set at 1120mm wide). Reading the manual sent to me by "CRG Asia" I am way too norrow.

By the way, a special thank you to CRG Asia for the CRG manual. It makes interesting reading and lots to learn

No problem... St George karting in australia has been working with CRG since the very beginning back in the days of the kali kart. They will be the best to advice you on the set up to run on the type of classes in your country.

But let me know should you need more help. THanks.

Just found the SSC - CRG setup manual again... just do a google search for "crg setup guide"

cool nice read. a lot of theory. I'm surprised more chassis makers dont have there own setup manuals. like does tonykart or intrepid for example?

Thanks for the find Mikko. both you and CRG Asia gave me the hype to read it.

But somehow i find all these manual are very similar. Basically are common sense setup knowledge.

The important thing is how to apply the knowledge, driver must have the correct feedback, know what he wants to correct. which setup will suit him. so many factor and variables.

On top of that, must know how to tweak the settings to suit the track changing condition.

If anyone wants to see a Tony Kart set up guide. Check the following link

http://www.kartingtechnic.dk/GoKart/Tek ... setup.html

For what it's worth and after hours of testing and learning, here is my base line setup:

Feel free to add or to just comment.

Weight Distribution = 40/60 & 50/50
Caster / KPI = 2/2 or 2/3 depending on grip
Toe Out = 2mm toe out per side
Camber = 0 (the maximo likes neg camber when loaded)
Front wheel hubs = 50mm (mag)
Front ride height = Middle
Front ride height washers = STD 2 top axle bearing
Front track spacers = 2.5 (20mm)
Front track = 1120mm
Front Crash bar = Tight
Rear wheel hubs = 90mm, 78mm depending on track
Rear ride height = Axle Down Chassis up (High)
Rear Track = 1385 to 1395mm
Axle Type = K when track has grip, Blue when track has low grip.
Rear Crash bar = Tight
Seat stay = 1 per side
3rd bearing = Tight (no grub)
Floor Pan Bolts & rubber = Soft setting (rubber just making contact)
Side pod bars (front/rear) = Loose/Loose
Ackerman - Stub Axle = Outer holes (any ackerman binds chassis)
Ackerman - Steering Flange = Upper holes
Seat bottom = 12mm under bottom of chassis
Seat to left foot rest = 660mm
Seat top to top of axle = 235mm
Tyre YHC = 11psi

Cheer

So the testing is done and looks like you've found yourself a good setup then, you're happy with the handling now?

Hi Mikko,
Yes, handling is alot better and much easier to drive.
My times are down due to (a)better setup & (b) seat time testing, Win/Win.

A couple of other things I want to try are:
1. Rear crash bar = Tight, Meduim or Loose
2. Front Crash bar = Tight, Meduim or Loose using new rubber washers where the bar is connected to frame.
3. More testing, as we in Australia will be running Mojo D2 in 2008.

Items that have had a major impact on setup for this frame was:
1. Loose side pod bars
2. Floor Pan, I used new rubber spacers between pan & frame, the trick is to NOT over stress the rubber. Let the rubber flex a little.

FYI:
This frame is designed with grip dialed in, so neutural settings had to be found. I originally had the frame so stiff and was slow coming out of corners. Another point of interest was this frame liked neg camber (loaded setting), but too much neg camber will bind chassis mid corner.

Cheers