in either case do yourself a favor, save some money and buy the ST rather than the EVXX. With 100cc circa 20hp and MG reds (medium hard) you will find more speed and adjustability with aluminium rims (not the EVXX magnesiums) and a 40mm soft to medium axle (rather than the normal racers 50mm).

Check out the reommendations here http://www.tonykartaustralia.com.au/ton ... tml#racere

and the recommended setups on MG reds
here: http://www.tonykartaustralia.com.au/pdf ... w_grip.pdf

and here:
http://www.tonykartaustralia.com.au/pdf ... l_grip.pdf

I think that you'll find these as [retty reasonable base line setups from which to fine tune to your driving and track conditions.

My aplogies David, in rereading your post I note that you have nominated the MG yellows. In this case I'd suggest the TonyKart Racer EV rather than ST. Typically, the suggestion is never use an axle harder than a Type "n" and usually at least one grade softer.

You'll want it specified with the multi-adjustable caster / camber pins and a genuine OTK seat of the correct size. The OTK seat is very soft and the chassis needs this to work as designed.

The link to the correct MG Yellow recommended setup is

http://www.tonykartaustralia.com.au/pdf ... l_grip.pdf

Good luck

hmm on heavy rubber track, i used hard axle which gives me 4-5th sec. only go soft(if time permitted) for rain.

Yes Rock - in most of Asia where you'd rarely see a track temperature below 25 degrees a hard works well. David appears to be located in Illinois where no doubt as in Melbourne, most of our racing is on track temperatures at best in the mid teens during winter and sometimes not very much above freezing.

In these conditions on a TonyKart we've found that a higher center of gravity (COG) and a soft axle gives us better mid corner speed and exit drive with the penalty of a little instability under braking. Lap times are always less, but the amount varies by track.

We usually raise the COG by raising the lead ballast up towards the top of the seat (we carry something more than 20kg to make minimum weight) rather than change the ride height. IMHO, unless David is quite tall (more than 5' 4") then this should work fine. If David is more than 5'8" tall then the COG won't need changing.

You guys have all been quite helpful, i'm so glad i brought this topic up. I'm around 5'6.5". At the track i race at in the summer the temperatures do get quite high, sometimes up to 95, and in my old kart i always had too much grip, due to its 1010mm wheelbase which i outgrew, and i could never free the kart up, i was in between axles and could never find the line between too much grip and too little, but i drove the tony kart, and it turns out im getting one, along with getting on a small team, to match. The tony drives great, you simply turn the wheel and the kart goes on the line you want. Thanks again for everybody's help. To add grip, do you add castor or take away castor?

good point "gp8"

more castor = more grip "david"