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 Post subject: Beginner's question
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 12:00 pm 
Podium Finisher

Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2007 7:51 am
Posts: 107
Location: Singapore
So I decided to move up from just driving around fun karts to taking up karting as a hobby.

I've my own helmet and gloves and am talking to the local vendors for a chassis and a Rotax Max engine.

So once I have a kart and a track to race on ...

(a) is there a need to purchase a kart suit immediately or can I wait till I'm planning to participate in races.

(b) how do I go about learning kart setups? I have some books on racing as well as on karting 2 strokes but its hard to visualise until my kart is purchased. Would it be a good idea to hire an experienced mechanic to familiarise me for a day? Any suggested mechanics I can approach?

(c) Karting accessories; i.e. data acquisitions systems. As someone new to karting, would these be required initially or should I focus on getting my driving technique correct, then start to look at these.

Appreciate any thoughts anyone can share ... based on your experiences.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 12:33 pm 
Merchant

Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2007 10:16 pm
Posts: 189
Dear Mike,

It's good to ask questions and unless someone gives you an honest answer you will go around in circles. To answer your questions in the best way possible -

1. There are 4 things you must have which are very important if you want to take up karting seriously. One is the helmet which must fit you properly. By properly I meant it must not be loose or too tight. The helmet has to meet SNELL standards which is now '98 or 2000 or 2005. Please note that Snell 98 will expire end of 2008. A good bet would be to get a helmet either Snell 2000 or 2005. A used helmet must not have been involved in a crash before otherwise it will not be of any good as there will be hairline cracks which you cannot see. Always when in doubt - change it. I have always advocate safety and helmet is no exception for at the end of the day you ask yourself - "How much is your head worth?"
The next thing is your racing suit. Always have a proper suit which fit you. The acceptable level is now Level 2 suits. You should have a racing suit even if you are just hobby karting. When you are going to enter a race, the suit will be checked by the organiser if it is suitable for use. If found not suitable your entry will be rejected unless you can produce another suit that is acceptable. So buy one which is approved. It is a small investment to make.
The gloves and shoes are just as important. The gloves has to be leather on the palm side. They should not be cut off at the fingers. A good pair will last you for some time. The shoes has to cover the angkles. In a crash, the angkles always take the impact. Having a pair of shoes covering the angkles will help to protect them.

These items are the most important things you must have if you want to start karting seriously. Always spend wisely and get the correct gear.

Good Luck

James Leong


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 2:31 pm 
Podium Finisher

Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2007 7:51 am
Posts: 107
Location: Singapore
James,

Thanks for the thoughtful reply.

Do you have any advice on how I can educate myself on kart setup?

Should I start off with vendor or engineer support in the beginning or is it better to jump off at the deep end of the pool and learn from mistakes?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 12:15 am 
World Champion

Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 2:00 pm
Posts: 332
Location: Pee Jay, Klang Valley
Mike,

Just to add on James's list....please please get a good rib protector cos bruise ribs hurt very much and the only sure is to stop driving for...months!

Surely u dun want that after "investing" in your new hobby.



In regards to set-up, getting some help from people who knows the sport would be easier for you.....and they could be fellow karters, ur local supplier or mechanic.

Alternatvely, there's this forum and the web for info BUT the best is always to learn it thru trial and error....hence we are always testing & driving!

Have fun.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 7:55 am 
Podium Finisher

Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2007 7:51 am
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Location: Singapore
Hi Jules,

I understand ribs can be injured(broken) through karting.

Is that through accidents where you are thrown out of the kart or can it be just from driving?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:34 am 
Podium Finisher

Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 11:25 pm
Posts: 91
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Broken ribs don't happen very often from just driving, but bruised ribs occur quite frequently. When you turn around 3 g-forces in the corners and you are in a fiberglass seat, there is obviously a lot of pressure on your ribs. Sometimes, if the track is rough, then you could possibly break ribs just by driving. I always use a strong kevlar rib protector. I've had some accidents where I probably would have broken a few ribs but my rib protector saved me.

As far as data acquistition goes, its a good idea to have something. Otherwise, you can't tell if your RPMs are too high/low or if your engine temperature is correct.

Setting up your kart is a life-long learning process. You'll learn something new everyday, guaranteed. Talk with some people who know what they are doing and get your kart set up in with a pretty "neutral" setup (medium stiffness axle, standard everything). Focus on learning to drive first, as that will be the biggest learning experience. Once you figure out how to push the limits of the kart and can intelligently determine what handling woes you may have in the kart, then you can begin trying to figure out what needs to be changed to go faster.

Some basic setup things that are pretty general:
1. USUALLY, widening the front increases oversteer
2. USUALLY, narrowing the front increases understeer
3. USUALLY, adding torsion bars increase grip

Since karts have a solid rear axle and no differential, to get a kart to turn best, you have to get the inside rear tire to come off the ground. That's why widening the front increases oversteer. With a wider front, when you turn in, more weight is jacked to the opposite rear corner of the kart, thus lifting the inside more effectively and causing the kart to turn quicker. Kart chassis go through a lot of flexing which is why choosing the correct chassis for your weight is so critical. If you are heavier, you may want a 30/32mm tubing chassis or even a 32/32mm. Lighter drivers may want a 28/30 or 30/30. Talk to some local shops if you can. They'll help you figure out what is best for you.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 3:26 pm 
World Champion

Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 2:00 pm
Posts: 332
Location: Pee Jay, Klang Valley
mlange wrote:
Hi Jules,

I understand ribs can be injured(broken) through karting.

Is that through accidents where you are thrown out of the kart or can it be just from driving?


As TJ has correctly answered - bruised ribs occur from the constant high Gs your body is subjected to while driving....and this is not helped further by the protrusions from the retaining screws on your seat, which can be minimised to an extend but only just. ( hint...use tillet seats )

Breaking ur ribs......is another issue but again, safety gear and driving within ur limits help!

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Why have 300hp when you cannot handle a kart's 30hp?


Last edited by Jules on Tue Jan 15, 2008 1:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 6:42 pm 
Podium Finisher

Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2007 7:51 am
Posts: 107
Location: Singapore
Jules & TJ

Thanks, appreciate the level of details in your answers.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 8:43 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 6:40 am
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Location: Highland Park, Illinois
As TJ has pointed out, having a data acquisition system is definately a very important part of karting. If you don't have a data acquisition system, you can only improve your driving so much. If you don't have one, and you are improving, and get to a certain point where you try a different line through a specific turn, you don't know if that line is helping you, because you can't see the change in your lap time. It is also really important to know where your clutch is engaging, and if you need different gearing. This also goes for setup, you don't know if the change in your setup has helped you because you can't see the change in lap time. By the way, if you are thinking about getting a rotax, you might want to change your mind to a Kf1 or 2 engine. They are faster, and they are starting to be used more and more. But if rotax is your most populated class, than race rotax.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 12:43 pm 
Podium Finisher

Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2007 7:51 am
Posts: 107
Location: Singapore
Thanks for the advice.

In a recent fun-kart event we used transponders to keep track of lap times. It was definitely helpful to have an idea of lap times rather than a clueless ride around the track.

I can definitely see the benefit of the data acquisition systems especially in aiming to improve times around specific sections of the track.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 5:34 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 07, 2007 11:25 pm
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Location: P1
starting early with the aid of data acquisition is a good idea.
i didnt had the pressure when i started. back then it cost an arm and leg. now is very affordable.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 1:17 pm 
Podium Finisher

Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2007 7:51 am
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Location: Singapore
One of the key conclusion to the recent 100cc chassis discussion was that vendor track support is important. Assuming all else being equal, does anyone have advice on picking a chassis for the rotax senior 125 class within the single manufacturer range?


i.e. if a karter wanted to use SwissHutless, he still had to choose the Toxic or Magic chassis (Im assuming Diabolik[ex-Vinto] is moreso for the DD2 class),

and in CRG, he had the (premium) choices of the Road Rebel and the Black Star,

and likewise for TonyKart and Kosmic karts.


(1) Could anyone share their experience on this question, especially considering the new homologation to Mojo D2 tires which Im assuming are going to run a greater degree of medium soft as compared to the previous standard.

(2) For a chassis type optimised for Medium to Soft tyres as opposed to a chassis optimised for Hard to Medium tyres, ... Is it subject to greater frame degradation (for a want of a better description), hence a shorter lifespan.


Just wondering, ya know ...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 5:00 pm 
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all will do the job..

best it to arrange a test drive too see which suit to your diving style. which makes you more confident, which gives you support when come to racing etc..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 6:41 pm 
Merchant

Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2007 10:16 pm
Posts: 189
Generally as Rock said, all chassis from a reputable manufacturer will do the job. The tubings are obtained from the same supplier. The chassis will to a certain degree be able to adapt to your driving.

Choosing a right supplier for your chassis in your country is an important issue. Do they have adequate spares to help you when you breakdown or do you wait for months just to get a set of brake pads. There are many what I would call a "fly by night" buy the chassis first and after that you are on your own.

You have to check out all the chassis supplier and see if they can commit to supplying you with all the necessary items you need during and after a race. How serious is the supplier????

Hope this is of help to you.

James Leong


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