hi all here i am again i am going to get a new kart next year but till then i want my rotax rm1 to go faster by doing the impossible so guys can u pls help?

Whats your Current Settings for your RM1 for the Camber, caster and toe?

sorry but i dont know what those r can u help me improve my noledge in karting

They're settings you should be very aware of and should check everytime you go to the track to at least make sure they are in ok range.

Camber - This is how far away your front tyres are away from a 90 degree angle to the ground. Or to put it another way how far the top of the front tyres are from each-other compared to the bottom. If the distance is the same you have 0 camber. If the distance is shorter on the top you have negative camber. If the distance is shorter on the bottom you have positive camber. So looking dead-ahead at a kart tyres like /----\ is negative camber and tyres like \------/ is positive camber.

Caster - this is the angle of the front wheel kingpin. The more away from 90 degrees it is the more caster you have. The effect of caster is when you turn the steering wheel it makes the outside front wheel move up and the inside front wheel moves down. This helps lift the inside rear tyre because it transfers weight to the outside of the kart. In general more caster = better front end bite.

Toe - this is how the front tyres "point" forwards. If both tyres are parallel you have zero toe. If the front tyres point inwards like /---\ you have toe - in or if they point outwards like \-----/ you have toe-out. Generally you'd want to run 0 tow to about 4mm toe-out. But depending on tyres and grip levels you might go further out. In the rain you go out a lot.

I really dun know if chassis setup is what he is asking for.....

put a turbo in? then it be faster!

The old RM1 is a very stiff chassis up to 2005 models. There were improvements done to it for the 2006 and 2007 models. For what you have in mind to make it go faster, my advice is to have the chassis reset back to standard trim. Check the shift wire and also have the DD2 engine serviced and replace worn out parts. Essentially the oil must be replaced at regular intervals.

If you do all this, your RM1 should be able to give you the speed you want. You have to understand that the RM1/DD2 is quite fast on its own in standard settings. If you follow Mikko's advise on the settings of the chassis, you should achieve a better lap time.

James Leong
Rotax Distributor

Saif one thing I just thought of - you race at very high altitudes (900 meters).

Do you know if you are running the standard main jet or if you have changed it? If you are using the standard jet you are likely running waaay too rich. You should probably be in the main jet range of 148-153.. if the DD2 engine is anything similar to the Rotax Max in jetting.